Norfolk Island is part of a small archipelago rising from a mountain range deep beneath the sea: a ridge that extends from New Caledonia to New Zealand. The island formed over time through a series of volcanic eruptions, the last of which occurred around 3 million years ago. It may be small - only 34.6 square kilometres - but there is beauty everywhere you look!
And even though the island is an external territory of Australia (just a two-hour flight from Brisbane), we flew from the International Airport and used our passports as identification. Even odder was having to complete an 'Incoming Passenger Card' as if we were entering Australia from overseas!
Our flight was one of our smoothest and we arrived to beautiful weather, around 19C and sunny. We last visited Norfolk Island in 2006 and thought much might have changed. Joyfully, this wasn't the case. Our accommodation, the Islander Lodge, where we also stayed 20 years ago, has some of the best views on the island and was just as we remembered.
This is the view from our unit. The larger island is Philip Island, comprising 190 hectares, 6kms offshore. During the colonial era pigs, goats and rabbits were released onto the island for officers to hunt for sport and food. As a result of this livestock the island was completely denuded. The last rabbit was removed in 1986 and the vegetation has slowly increased.
The pink colouring is attributed to the extensive pink granite on the island, as well as the local Philip Island Hibiscus.
Photo courtesy of: https://norfolkislandnationalpark.gov.au/discover/phillip-island/
Sunset from the deck
On our way from the airport, we passed through the main town, Burnt Pine, and pulled into Foodland to stock up on what turned out to be very expensive food: a dozen eggs were $16.45, Tamar Valley yoghurt was $13.95, 400 grams of bacon was $15.97, and a packet of Tim Tams was $7.75. At least the wine was a reasonable price!
Early the next morning we drove down to the Kingston UNESCO World Heritage Site and walked along the stunning foreshore past the convict ruins, Emily Bay and the golf course to Lone Pine Point.
We passed locals and other tourists on their morning constitutionals and saw lots of birds including some very well-fed ducks. On the way back we stopped to watch a group of model plane enthusiasts flying fixed-wings, jets and helicopters. Obviously, they were very experienced with their crafts soaring, diving and doing loops, etc.
We later spoke to one of the local enthusiasts who told us members of the Tingalpa Model Aero Club in Brisbane fly over every year for a week, and this was that week. In fact, five of the local enthusiasts are members of the Tingalpa club.
A flying surfboard
Emily Bay
Lone Pine Point
We then drove to the north-east corner of the island via
Puppy's Point and
Anson Bay.
From Puppy's Point
These are just some of the many cows that wander aimlessly around the island, across fields, parks and roads alike, some very close to town. And much to Penny's delight the island abounds in both domestic and wild hens and roosters, many of which are adorned in beautiful colours. Their eggs are delicious too!
Halle, one of two hens who visited us daily
From Anson Point
Anson Bay
Australasian Gannets (also known as Masked Boobys) nesting
Our last drive for the day was to the Captain Cook Memorial. Cook first sighted Norfolk Island on 10 October 1774, aboard the HMS Resolution whose landing site was about halfway down the left side of this photo. Of course, archaeological evidence has revealed that Norfolk was used by Polynesian settlers long before Cook's discovery.
One of an amazing copse of Moreton Bay Figs planted between 1860-1890
The next day we drove north-east to the Cascade Pier, one of only two piers on the island where cargo ships offload supplies, the other being at Kingston, where we saw a cargo ship offloading 20 years ago.
Our hire car, whom we named Elwood (from Eldoo Car Rental)
The colour of the water everywhere is breathtaking
Along the way we saw some amazing scenery as well as some of the nicer properties on the island. We then drove back into town for coffee and cake at The Olive Cafe, before continuing on to Quality Row in Kingston, where the colonial military barracks were located, as well as the homes of 'big wigs' like the Roman Catholic and Protestant clergymen, Royal Engineer, Foreman of Works and Commissariat staff, etc., as well as Government House. A few of the buildings were destroyed by fire in the colonial era but the remainder are still in use.
We continued on to the Norfolk Island Golf Course where we had played nine holes 20 years ago. It's a stunning course and is well used by locals and tourists alike.
From there we drove to Point Hunter and found the remains of Nathaniel Lucas's Windmill which was built in 1795 and was the earliest structure of its kind in the Australian colonies.
Just down the road a bit are the remains of the New Salt House and the Lime Kiln.
The following day we wandered through the weekly Sunday Markets and enjoyed egg and bacon rolls before a coffee at The Golden Orb, another of the many cafes in Burnt Pine. We then drove to the Botanical Gardens and walked many of the boardwalk paths through lush rainforest.
On to Bumboras, a lovely park with fabulous views.
And then to Crystal Pool, located below Point Ross on the south-west of the island. Apparently, you can swim in the pool but have to climb down rocks using a rope. We settled for the view.
One of the many ruins that appear in residents' backyards!
That night we dined at the Bounty Bar & Grill, a really lovely restaurant with great atmosphere and superb food and wine.
The
Norfolk Island Royal Agriculture and Horticultural Show Day was being held the next day, so we wandered through the main hall packed full of exhibits. In another building we saw wonderful photography and the poultry exhibit. The show was well attended by enthusiastic locals and tourists like us.
Later that afternoon we drove down to Emily Bay with a bottle of wine and nibblies and enjoyed an early dinner overlooking the beach. Show Day is a public holiday, so the beach was packed with swimmers, sunbakers and volleyball players. We finished with a fantastic sunset!
The next day was all culture and history, as we visited the historic Royal Engineers Office and the Pier Store (History Museum). Norfolk Island has a strong connection to the Mutiny on the Bounty, but as we discovered, only the descendants of the mutineers were brought to Norfolk Island as space became an issue on Pitcairn Island following the mutineers' escape there from Tahiti.
Inside the Royal Engineers Office, now a museum containing dioramas of the original convict gaol. In another room we watched a fascinating video on the history and arrival of the Pitcairn peoples.
Inside the Pier Store (History Museum) which details the journey of HMS Bounty and her famous mutiny.
Ruins of the Crankmill, where convicts ground flour, more as a punishment than a working utility. We also wandered through the original gaol where, between 1900 and 1930, local residents were charged one shilling to remove the stone bricks and rocks from the gaol buildings to construct their homes - now it's just a desolate, walled piece of land.
But today's highlight was Fletcher's Mutiny Cyclorama, a 50 metre, 360-degree telling of the story of the Mutiny on the Bounty and the Pitcairn and Norfolk Island peoples between 1788 and 1856. The cyclorama, painted by local artists Tracey Yager and Sue Draper, opened to the public in 2002 and was commissioned by Marie Bailey, a direct descendent of Fletcher Christian.
Walking down into the circular building visitors find themselves totally immersed in the story that defines Norfolk Island. The painting is magnificent, almost photographic, and the foreground is crafted to match, allowing visitors to feel as if they are really part of that story. Unfortunately, photographs are now allowed but these images come courtesy of a brochure. We were so thrilled we found this wonderful attraction!
We began our last day on Norfolk with a stroll through the Kingston Cemetery, 'home' to convicts, military and residents, past and present.
One of the more famous contemporary residents
John Adams was the last mutineer to survive on Pitcairn Island
Into town for a coffee at The Golden Orb, named, presumably, after all the Golden Orb spider webs found on the walk to the cafe from the main street!
Government House, residence of the Administrator of Norfolk Island, is open to the public one day per month and we just happened to be there. It is a single storey Georgian residence of 1,000 square metres, comprising 24 rooms, two internal courtyards and two lightwells (small courtyards). Since 1829 it has stood amidst immaculate grounds with views across the golf course.
Government House
The dining room table is the only original piece of furniture still remaining in the house, however most of the other pieces are also Georgian. Interestingly, the dining room chairs were made in 1987 to match the table!
Finally, we drove up to the Queen Elizabeth Lookout perched high above Kingston. The lookout was opened by Queen Elizabeth II on her visit to Norfolk Island in 1974. The views, of course, are spectacular.
It has been a wonderful week of discovery, all over again, and we look forward to coming back again... but perhaps we won't wait 20 years next time!
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