Our long-awaited driving holiday through parts of NSW finally arrived and we set out in the rain, which became torrential as we drove towards Goondiwindi on the border of Queensland and NSW. In fact, at times the rain was so heavy we could barely see the road ahead!
By the time we arrived in Goondiwindi, the rain had abated somewhat, and the motel manager told us it was the first rain they had received in ages and would allow local farmers to finally plough and sow.
As we drove through the town, we saw a number of the murals that decorate the narrow alleys. We then enjoyed a lovely evening meal at the historic Victoria Hotel which was originally built as a modest one storey timber building in the late 1800s. In the 1920s it was purchased by the Pendocks, who practically rebuilt it into a very large brick and timber building, retaining many of its historic features.
Back at our motel room we decided to check on the three routes we could take from Goondiwindi to Lightning Ridge the next morning. The first route was closed due to water on the road and the second had a whole section dug up because of the rain, and was impassable. So, it meant we were forced to head north-west to St George before heading south, adding 120kms to our journey.
As we drove through the village of Dirranbandi we called into the bakery for a quick pie. As it turns out, the bakery is owned by Ukrainians and there were some fabulous pastries on show!
Along the way, in addition to cows and sheep, we spotted a host of wildlife including emus, wild pigs, a goat, an echidna and a multitude of birds including apostle birds, Mulga parrots, brown falcons and wedgetail eagles. And of course, the usual roadkill... This is 'cotton' country and we saw hundreds of enormous coloured (blue, pink, lemon and green) bales of cotton!
We finally arrived at our destination, Lightning Ridge, and checked into our accommodation, 'Sonia's B&B' which provided breakfast, only if you paid extra (we brought our own anyway). We were apparently given the 'best' room because we were staying three nights - a converted shed in the back yard.
The luxury bathroom
Concrete floors throughout - the aircon stayed at 24C our entire stay!
Opals were first discovered in the Lightning Ridge area in the 1870s. The district was initially called Nettleton's Hill after Charles Nettleton discovered opals in 1902, then Wallangulla, and finally Lightning Ridge following World War I. Legend has it the name was coined after a shepherd, his dog and six hundred sheep were killed during a fierce electrical storm while sheltering in a ridge in the area. As you drive into the town there is a sign that says, 'Lightning Ridge Population?'
That night we ventured out to the Lightning Ridge Bowling Club which, as it turned out, was the best building in town, served delicious wine and food and had all the modern conveniences.
In the morning we headed to Chambers of the Black Hand where Pete, an experienced opal miner, took us way, way, way down into the mine and showed us how to use 'divining rods' to locate the faults in the rock - we each had a turn and it was truly amazing. He then explained that as the old timers mined without electricity, they used candles, but only after they had identified opal threads in the rocks with their picks - in other words they worked in complete darkness most of the time.
All of the supports are Cypress Pine which will creak when they're about to move, whereas hardwood will simply splinter and collapse.
Emergency exit
Behind this vehicle is someone's current claim
Local legend Ron Canlin owned the mine for decades and although he never made his fortune in opals, he started carving the soft sandstone walls in 1998 with a Sheffield bone-handled butter knife. There are now some 900 of his magnificent carvings on display throughout.
At the end of our 1.5-hour tour we were offered a free cuppa and then, thankfully, took the newly installed lift back up to the surface.
Ron Canlin also painted all these illustrations
The spotlessly clean drop toilet on the surface
That afternoon we took several of the 'car door' self-drive tours through the town and saw a variety of attractions. Tourists follow the map for each 'car door' tour which is identified with the relevant actual painted car door.
The Australian Opal Centre (AOC) has been under construction for many years, but we were told the partly government funded project has run out of money and the enormous building now stands, unfinished. What a waste.
An old now unused claim
Ridge Castle, a quirky outback castle with a dungeon and turret
Perhaps not your typical Airbnb...
Another castle, Amigos Castle which is a private home built single-handedly of ironstone
18 metre high Stanley the Emu, constructed out of recycled materials, including a VW Beetle, by local artist John Murray. A time capsule was installed in the sculpture, to be opened in 2063, the 50th anniversary of its installation.
Mural in town
Our favourite cafe for excellent coffee!
The next morning we drove to the local Sunday markets which sold a huge variety of opals and opal related jewellery, as well as bric-a-brac and the usual sausage sizzle. From there we drove 74kms out of town to the Grawin Opal Fields to visit the three 'bush pubs'. Opal was first discovered in the area in 1905 and in 1920 a small village was established which includes The Club in the Scrub which has been operating since the late 1970s and is run by volunteers. The village also has a golf course with rocky fairways and oiled sand greens, and a Men's Shed with eighteen members.
Grawin Golf Course
Cutting and polishing opals
Inside The Club in the Scrub on a typical Sunday when the locals (and a few tourists) come for lunch and a few drinks. We enjoyed the most delicious hamburgers, beer and wine, and as it was cooling off outside the fire burning in the hearth was much appreciated.
We then drove a short distance to the Glengarry Hilton which started in the back of a rabbit chiller providing beer for thirsty miners. In those days the pub had no license, and the police were well aware of the sly grog shop. However, the bush telegraph was faster and the patrons always had time to remove the illegal booze. Finally, in 1993, the pub became legal after obtaining a liquor license.
Penny did a spot of fossicking and found a few tiny pieces of 'potch' which isn't quite opal, so she won't be planning anything extravagant just yet...
The third establishment in the area is The Sheepyard Inn, another pub with huge amounts of memorabilia, including lines of disused mining trucks.
The roads were mostly unsealed and a little precarious at times,
but we thoroughly enjoyed our day out at the opal fields.
We left Lightning Ridge the next morning, having had a fabulous two days, and headed south through Walgett, Coonamble, Gulargambone and Gilgandra. Along the way we slowed for the largest herd of cattle we had ever seen on the road.
We stopped in at Coonamble for a delicious pie at the local bakery and then used the very modern public toilets. As you go in a male voice instructs you to lock the door and tells you that you have 10 minutes before the door automatically reopens. As if this wasn't strange enough, I then listened to a jazz version of 'Do you know the way to San Jose' whilst in the cubicle.
We then continued on to Dubbo, and compared to our accommodation in Lightning Ridge, the Nightcap hotel was a palace, with Penny excited about the modern, glass enclosed shower...
Unfortunately, after two beautiful weather days the rain arrived, which prevented us from walking through the botanical gardens so instead we drove out to the Wellington Caves and spent time in the Ancient Landscapes Gallery which documents the paleontology history of the area. It was in this area that the very first Diprotodon (skeleton below) was discovered in the early 1830s. The Diprotodon was the largest marsupial in existence, part of Australia's megafauna, which roamed our country from 2.5 MYA to about 7,000 YA.
For size comparison a modern-day wombat sits to the left of the Diprotodon and beneath the skeleton is the head of a modern woman!
We spent a night in Oberon where it was 6C and wet, but the Royal Hotel had open fires and the food was great. The next morning we drove out to the spectacular Mayfield Garden, which began as a 2,100 acre generational working farm. In 1984 the Hawkins family purchased the property, added 5,000 acres and gradually set aside 15 hectares to be dedicated to horticulture. The result is a magnificent garden with beautiful water features, maze, croquet lawn, rose garden, amphitheatre, and much more.
Although the weather was inclement, we managed a two-hour 4.8km walk through the garden, which only fueled our desire to return in Spring or Summer.
A metallic 'rain tree'
The Grotto
Inside the Grotto, the ceiling is reminiscent of the vaulted ceilings of the 16th Century
It has taken years, but finally Jim's hen house at Riverside has been outdone by this magnificent structure. The girls roost and lay in the three 'houses' and eat and play in the fenced areas.
Next we drove to Katoomba in the Blue Mountains for a couple of days. Penny spent a lot of time here when she was young and even though the town has changed, she was able to reminisce about those days.
The first day we walked up and down (literally) Katoomba Street and then drove to the quaint and pretty town of Leura, for lunch. On to Echo Point to see the famous Three Sisters, and finally we headed down Cliff Drive which took us along the edge of the escarpment and offered fantastic views.
The Three Sisters
Narrow Neck
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When Penny and her family caravanned at Katoomba all those years ago, she would collect Mountain Devils from the native Lambertia Formosa plant and using pipe cleaners, turn them into little 'devils'. Penny was excited to find several around Katoomba, including a rare double-header.
Our Katoomba accommodation was originally built, as two separate houses, in 1896. In 1900 the Sisters of Charity took possession and used it as a convent school. After the school moved to purpose-built premises in 1912 the property was used as a guesthouse. Between 1914 and 1924 a new facade and second storey were added, as well as a grand ballroom. In 1997 new owners purchased the guesthouse and following a multi-million-dollar renovation it because a boutique hotel for just 40 guests.
On our second day we drove north to the town of Blackheath for a visit to the enormous Victory Theatre Antique Centre, once an early 20th Century 'picture palace'. Then we drove down into the lovely Megalong Valley, stopping in at the incredibly popular Megalong Valley Tea Rooms for an early lunch.
We left Katoomba and headed down the mountains, stopping at Wentworth Falls for more spectacular views.
Then it was on to Hunter Valley for a few nights at Pokolbin. As usual we stayed at Harrigans Irish Pub and were astounded that the carpark was full. It seemed that half of NSW was visiting - because of the long weekend. It was certainly loud at dinner, but there was such a festive vibe we really enjoyed the atmosphere.
The next morning we drove out to the historic village of Wollombi which was convict built, established in 1830. We had visited before but this time we were here for the famous Wollombi Markets which are only held on Mondays of long weekends. Given the crowds the night before, we arrived at 8.30am, easily parked and enjoyed 1.5 hours walking around the 100 market stalls which sell fresh foods and wines, bric-a-brac, pottery, clothes, pet supplies, flowers, timber crafts, etc. As we drove back to Pokolbin we passed a 1.8km stretch of queued vehicles waiting to get into Wollombi. So glad we went early...
After a frenetic Sunday night, Monday night felt like everyone had evacuated and we were left in a ghost town. The next morning we drove out to The Vintage, a residential and holiday estate built around a Peppers hotel with a Greg Norman championship golf course where we brunched at the cosy Mezze Cafe.
Then it was on to beautiful Port Macquarie for a few nights before heading home. Another great trip!
Street art in Port Macquarie, on the 'green'
