Saturday 16 March 2024

Southern Sojourn

We left a very hot and humid Queensland and headed south. Our first stop was Port Macquarie where we stayed at the Breakwall Caravan Park (in a cabin) - we had stayed there in our caravan many years ago. Lovely spot, and the breakwall walk is wonderful. For decades visitors have painted the rocks either side of the path and it is certainly colourful. And we stopped and watched as a fisherman on the rocks pulled an enormous flathead out of the river.





Whilst in Port we revisited Sea Acres Rainforest Centre where we walked the 1.3 km circuit through the rainforest and escaped the midday heat (it was well over 30C and very humid in Port). Beautiful way to spend a hour.



From Port Macquarie we drove south to Bateau Bay on the NSW Central Coast, and then on to Mittagong in the Southern Highlands. Along the way we stopped at the historic village of Berrima and enjoyed browsing the craft and gift shops whilst taking in the Georgian style buildings - just like in Oatlands.




Then it was on to Canberra for a few days. We caught up with friends Hilary and Graeme at their property in Murrumbateman for a scrumptious lunch, and where the temperature was a beautiful 23 degrees. Penny was able to re-acquaint herself with Hilary's four girls (hens) - one of which is named Penny. We had only recently learned from our former neighbours at Riverside, that one of Penny's girls, Hilary, was still alive and well!


The next day we drove to the historic village of Bungendore where we visited some handiwork stores including a timber store that showcased beautiful Tasmanian timbers - at outrageous prices! From there we drove to the National Botanic Gardens where we lunched and then completed the 1.4km walking circuit. As we were heading back to the information centre we saw that part of the rainforest area was being 'misted' and read that this occurs regularly in the warmer months, as they are Tasmanian rainforest plants!



We passed one of the locals sunning himself. The other locals include a variety of birds like the New Holland Honeyeater, Blue Wren and Eastern Spinebill. And we also saw a brown snake, just as we began our circuit walk, so we were on alert!


A trip to Canberra is not complete without a visit to the National Arboretum, and this was our third visit there. We lunched in the cafe overlooking Canberra, and then wandered around the grounds.





Two of the amazing bonsais in the attached National Bonsai and Penjing Collection


165-million-year-old (Jurassic era) petrified timber from Queensland






We left Canberra and drove south towards the NSW South Coast, via Cooma and the Snowy Hydro Discovery Centre. The centre houses many displays (some interactive) documenting the history and current status of the Snowy Hydro Scheme. We were shown a very informative 30-minute big screen film that was very enjoyable. And coffee and snacks in the cafe were delicious.


Model of a modern drill used to make tunnels


Photo gallery of the construction of the Hydro Scheme in the 1950s/60s


Memorabilia from the early days of construction

Before we left for Eden, we drove around the Cooma city centre and Penny, of course, discovered the Salvos and Vinnies stores where she spent a little time and purchased a couple of miniatures.

That afternoon, following a drive through the high country, we arrived in Eden, NSW's most southern town. Whaling ships had been operating in the area in 1791 and in 1797 Bass and Flinders surveyed Twofold Bay for the first time and made contact with the local Thawa Aboriginal people. A whaling station was first established in 1828 and the industry played an important role in the town's economy for over 100 years. Orcas (killer whales) were used to herd humpback whales into the harbour so that whalers could kill them - what a sad chapter in the town's history. Interestingly, Eden was settled to allow graziers a better way to transport their cattle to Hobart!

Whilst checking in to the caravan park, we were told that a cruise ship would be in port the following day. So, the next morning we drove down to Snug Cove where the enormous Celebrity Edge was docked, and wandered across to the terminal where beautiful local crafts were on display. We really felt like passengers - our ship had come in, but unfortunately we were driving...


Back in town we walked the length of the main street, window shopped, and stopped for coffee. Then we drove twenty-five minutes to the seaside town of Merimbula and lunched at the large and modern Club Sapphire which has two big new bowling greens under cover - Jim was envious. 

We left Eden and headed north along the coast. Our first stop was Bega which of course is famous for its cheese. The Bega Cheese Heritage Centre demonstrates the history of dairy and cheese making in the Bega Valley.




The original Bega Cheese Factory building from the 1860s


And this is probably the type of milking cow every dairy farmer wants!

On our way further north, we called into beautiful Bermagui and passed Camel Rock on our way to the tiny historic village of Central Tilba which was bustling with tourists.




We arrived at the Araluen Motor Lodge at Batehaven, just two kms from the centre of Bateman's Bay, where we enjoyed a lovely view of the lake from our room. And we discovered the Soldier's Club, dining overlooking the river.




On our first day there we drove to the historic town of Braidwood which is about halfway between the South Coast and Canberra, and took in the old buildings, quirky stores and excellent food and coffee at the bakery. On our way back we called into the historic village of Mogo, just 7kms from Bateman's Bay, and packed full of second-hand, craft and homewares stores.


For Penny's former scrapbooking ladies, this particular shop has as much stock (similar) as Bev's Cross Crafts in Spreyton, crammed into a space the size of our motel room!

On our second day we headed for the Mogo Wildlife Park, which is similar in style and size to the Tasmania Zoo. The park is home to the Lion (mum, dad and two four-month-old cubs), Sumatran Tiger, Giraffe, Zebra, White Rhino, Cheetah, Leopard, Spotted Hyena, Red Panda, Otter and the iconic Meerkat, as well a host of primates and a small contingent of Aussie animals.








We left the next morning for the long drive north to Wollongong. Penny hadn't visited for decades, and Jim had never been there, so we didn't know what to expect.

Along the way we called into what we remembered as the small arty-crafty villages of Milton and Berry, only to discover they were now larger, less quirky and more expensive, but still charming. We also drove through the village of Culburra, where Penny's mum owned a small fibro holiday cottage back in the 1950s, and which now is the very populated seaside town of Culburra Beach.


Some of the locals at Culburra

At Nowra we stopped for lunch at the local bowls club which also boasts a resort hotel, and then drove on to Wollongong, once a mining town and now a thriving coastal city. Our accommodation was only minutes' walk from the CBD and we discovered Wollongong Central, a very large, modern shopping centre where designer label stores mix with the usual favourites.



The next day we parked on the foreshore and walked to the lighthouses - yes, there are two within 200 metres of each other. The waves were crashing into the breakwall were quite a sight.





This 'hole' is part of a tunnel that extends from the lighthouse to the adjacent carpark. The three cannons in the background date back to 1880.



On to the Nan Tien Temple, the largest Buddhist temple in the Southern Hemisphere. Unfortunately, we were unable to enter the pagoda as shorts and t-shirts are apparently unacceptable dress, so we walked around the grounds and took photos - very impressive.




From there we visited the lovely Wollongong Botanic Gardens on the side of Mount Keira, where we walked and took in the various plant types and wildlife.







We continued to the summit of Mount Keira for fantastic views of Wollongong and the coast. At the top of the land portion is one of the lighthouses we had visited that morning.



The view reminded us of the view from the Pinnacle at Mount Wellington. However, we were surprised to learn that the Mount Keira lookout is 463.9 metres high, whereas Mount Wellington lookout is 1,270 metres high.

We believe that part of the joy of travel is eating. This trip we chose accommodation that allowed us to make our own breakfast each morning, and then buy a sandwich or salad for lunch. Evening meals we mostly ate out, and we usually chose a club - bowls, golf, leagues, RSL, etc. - for dinner. One such club stood out this trip, the Builders Club in Wollongong. Not only does it have a variety of attractive eating and drinking options, it's modern decor is very pleasing to the eye.

It has the largest TV screen in the entire Illawarra, and it was great to watch Jim's NRL team the Brisbane Broncos beat the South Sydney Rabbitohs. This club also has the Stonegrill Steakhouse where patrons cook their own streak, at their table, on a stone slab heated to 400C. The steak and the vegetables were so delicious, and the process such fun, that we ate there two nights running. 



We left Wollongong and drove along the Grand Pacific Drive north to Stanwell Park. Along the way we crossed the Sea Cliff Bridge, a remarkable engineering feat.


We stopped at a lookout where we could see past the bridge all the way back to Wollongong


Sea Cliff Bridge - photo courtesy of the What's on in Wollongong website

We then drove north through the western suburbs of Sydney and took the nine kilometre-long  NorthConnex Tunnel which, thankfully, bypasses the incredibly busy Pennant Hills Road and brings vehicles out at the M1 Freeway. The tunnel is one of the longest in the country and takes 15 minutes to traverse. As you enter from the southern end 136 mirror-finished lorikeets adorn the wall and inside, there are several 160-metre-long blue forest lighting features. It is certainly an impressive tunnel - feel free to take a look: NorthConnex Tunnel.

The Hunter Valley is all about wine and food, and we made the most of it in Pokolbin, enjoying a delicious lunch one day at Nineteen at the beautiful Vintage Golf Club and dinner another night at the bistro at the Cypress Lakes Resort. In between we visited vineyards, wineries, and antiques and other stores. 


And we celebrated St Patrick's Day with a drink, along with hundreds of others, at the famous Harrigans pub!




We now head back to Port Macquarie then on to the Gold Coast. It has been wonderful to visit the NSW South Coast again after so many years, and we have great memories to carry home with us!













 














   











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