Our 335km drive from Cairns to Cooktown, in the southern section of the Cape York Peninsula, took us 6.5 hours. We called into Port Douglas, which had grown tremendously since our visit some 25 years ago, to stock up on groceries, and we drove through Mossman. Unfortunately, there was lots of roadwork along the way, but we understood why when we discovered the area is still recovering from their last cyclone.
We then stopped for ice-creams at the Palmer River Roadhouse, a fascinating tin shed that houses a cafe, bar and even a museum of sorts. And we picked up some excellent coffee at the Lakeland Roadhouse, before arriving into Cooktown around 3pm. The scenery was much the same along our route; thousands of acres of sugarcane, banana plantations, numbers of wrecked vehicles by the side of the road, and anthills of all shapes and sizes.
Our Airbnb was a fully self-contained two-bedroom house and better equipped than any we've stayed in before. On our first day we walked through the beautiful, tropical 62-hectare Cooktown Botanical Gardens which also houses a modern art gallery, information centre and cafe.
We continued out to Finch Bay, not far from the Gardens
It seems that most towns in North Queensland have a mountain lookout that affords fantastic views of the district, and Cooktown is no exception. We drove up the very steep road to Grassy Hill lookout and lighthouse for spectacular 360-degree views. In 1770 Captain Cook and his crew actually climbed the mountain so they could view the surrounding reefs and navigate a safe passage.
Endeavour River
The lighthouse was built in 1886 and is now automated, converted to solar power in 1993
Cooktown
On our second day we spent time at the Cooktown Museum, also known as James Cook Museum. The museum, which is housed in a beautiful 19th Century former convent, celebrates the diverse history of the town including both that of the traditional owners and the HM Bark Endeavour which Cook and his crew repaired at Cooktown in 1770.
Inside the Museum
The original anchor from the Endeavour, and one of her cannons
This is one of about 50 wells that were sunk in the early days of settlement, to provide fresh water for the people of Cooktown. A steam-powered pump and a 75mm pipe delivered water to the wharf and nearby dwellings.
One of the statues dedicated to the early Chinese in Cooktown
On our morning walk along the beautiful foreshore
Saturday morning market
Dinner at the delightful RSL club in town
Cooktown Golf Course
and the clubhouse (just a tad different from Emerald Lakes)...
The mountain in the background was formed 260 million years ago as a mass of molten rock (magma) which fractured, and through water penetration left the solid rock beneath a layer of jumbled boulders.
Even more interesting is that in this area there have been numerous sightings of the 'Queensland Tiger', allegedly a resident of the mountain. The animal has been blamed for the death and mauling of cattle in the Cooktown area and is described as a large striped cat resembling the Thylacine, which inhabited Queensland until about 20,000 years ago...
The historic and locally famous Lions Den Hotel
There is a message on the back of the toilet doors to not draw on those doors or walls as, they say, there is plenty of space on the hotel walls - but you would have a hard time finding any!
Various shaped and sized ant hills - these are between 1 and 2ft high
This one is over 5ft high
We so enjoyed our time in Cooktown, but it was time to return to Cairns and the journey south. This time we were staying in an apartment overlooking the esplanade and we discovered the Cairns Festival was in full swing as we celebrated Jim's birthday that evening at Piato Mediterranean Restaurant at the Marina.
The view from our apartment
The trees are alive with colour
Water 'dancing' to music, from the Cairns lagoon
And even a Scottish Pipe Band!
After our first morning walk around Cairns, we drove back up to Port Douglas to spend some time browsing the main street boutiques and stop for lunch. We arrived via Palm Cove, which is a beautiful resort town on the beach. The problem is, of course, that swimmers need to be aware of the threat of stingers and crocodiles, so the beautiful white sandy beaches are empty. No doubt the resort pools get a good workout.
Palm Cove
We spent the second day relaxing locally and then drove to Kuranda. The highlight was a visit to Birdworld where some 350 birds free fly and visitors can hand feed them, as we did. Penny handfed Wandering Whistling Ducks and several Alexandrine Parrots, and we both fed grapes to a Southern Cassowary. Just beautiful!
Alexandrine Parrot - they love shiny things so Penny had to remove her earrings and watch!
Major Mitchell's Cockatoo
And the rare Red-tailed Black Cockatoo
We also visited the impressive Museum of Fossils & Gemstones
Back in Cairns, we explored the magnificent 38-hectare Botanic Gardens which are divided into the main Flecker Garden, Gondwanan Evolution Garden, First Peoples Plant Use Garden, Conservatory, Rainforest Gully and Fitzalan Garden. There is also a Rainforest Boardwalk, several lakes, a visitor centre and two cafes. It is enormous and we walked for almost two hours with a brief stop for coffee.
After we photographed these magnificent stags, a huge palm frond landed on the walkway - just as well we had moved off...
Brush Turkeys are everywhere, even inside the cafe
Beautiful Heliconia Lobster Claw
Inside the conservatory
There are many bamboo stands, but these are not. These are Areca Palms from Madagascar.
On the Rainforest Boardwalk
We have really enjoyed our late afternoon walks along the Esplanade, stopping in at one of many hotels for a refreshing drink.
The weather has been amazing, and we look forward to more of the same as we head south tomorrow morning on the next part of our journey. And here are a couple of the 'locals' who accompany us on every drive...
